Exhausted after our pilgrims trail, we got back into Eric the Toyota and wended our way to the mountain town of Koya-san (well I say we; for the first part of the journey I slept and Sam heroically drove with just our Japanese sat-nav as a guide). I awoke from my slumbers as the road became windier and was rewarded the most incredible views. Koya-san is a mountain town and the journey to the top is epically beautiful. The 'other-worldly' feel of the place is emphasised by the striking contrast in weather at the summit. Having hiked in our t-shirts the day before we arrived to softly falling snowflakes in Koya-san.
The town is the centre of Japan's Buddhist tradition and home to the largest Buddhist cemetery in Japan. We stayed in the Eko-in monastery, a deeply spiritual place where we were received graciously by the young monks who lived in the monastery whilst completing their religious studies.
The highlight of our stay in this incredible place was our night-time tour the Okunoin cemetery with a monk called Nobu. It is hard to describe Nobu other than to say he radiated spirituality and peacefulness. He guided us through more than a mile of gravestones, with careful explanations of the Buddhist tradition to which he had dedicated his life; dealing with the complexities of subjects as vast as forgiveness and enmity with true grace.
Finally, he took us to mausoleum of Kobo Dashi, a much revered monk who is believed to still be meditating beneath the ground, over a thousand years since he first began his communion with the Gods. As Nobu asked us to close our eyes and say a personal prayer whilst he prayed for us, I could truly feel the holiness of this very special place.
The town is the centre of Japan's Buddhist tradition and home to the largest Buddhist cemetery in Japan. We stayed in the Eko-in monastery, a deeply spiritual place where we were received graciously by the young monks who lived in the monastery whilst completing their religious studies.
The highlight of our stay in this incredible place was our night-time tour the Okunoin cemetery with a monk called Nobu. It is hard to describe Nobu other than to say he radiated spirituality and peacefulness. He guided us through more than a mile of gravestones, with careful explanations of the Buddhist tradition to which he had dedicated his life; dealing with the complexities of subjects as vast as forgiveness and enmity with true grace.
Finally, he took us to mausoleum of Kobo Dashi, a much revered monk who is believed to still be meditating beneath the ground, over a thousand years since he first began his communion with the Gods. As Nobu asked us to close our eyes and say a personal prayer whilst he prayed for us, I could truly feel the holiness of this very special place.
Photo Credit: www.japan-guide.com
The next morning we awoke at 5,30am to witness the monk's morning prayers and fire ritual. It unlike anything I have ever seen and the monk's chanting and continual beating of a drum was hypnotic. The fact that it involved a female monk made me very happy even in the sub-zero temperatures of the early morning temple!
Our early morning meant we were able to set off on the road to Kyoto in excellent time. The trafficky journey was made considerably better by the fact we found both coffee and baked goods on the road!! It turns out three days without coffee is too much for Team Tombs.
We arrived in Kyoto at approximately lunch time and after a sad goodbye to Eric the Toyota and a much needed hot shower in our Airbnb we set out to explore this wonderful city of contrasts. It is impossible to describe all our wonderful experiences in Kyoto but indulge me in setting out my top two:
We arrived in Kyoto at approximately lunch time and after a sad goodbye to Eric the Toyota and a much needed hot shower in our Airbnb we set out to explore this wonderful city of contrasts. It is impossible to describe all our wonderful experiences in Kyoto but indulge me in setting out my top two:
- Sunset in Gion - Gion is historically Kyoto's Geisha district. Its winding streets used to be home to traditional Japanese tea houses in which the Geisha entertained their clients; now they are filled with little shops selling delightful Japanese eats (matcha cream cone - umm ... yes) and modern Japanese women dressed in traditional kimono carrying selfie sticks and experimenting with life as their grandmothers may have experienced it. Truly a clash of cultures. We stood at the Temple at the top of Gion and watched the sunset over this fascinating place.
- The Temples of Northern Higashiyama - Northern Higashiyama is an oasis of calm. You wander through the cobbled streets, with sunlight dappled by cherry blossom shining upon you and happen upon temples with gardens of mossy stones or perfectly manicured trees. Holding hands with Sam walking through such a setting was like being in a dream. I particularly loved a tinytemple (the name of which I shall never know) where we stumbled across an exhibition of modern Japanese art; full of brightly coloured figures holding balloons beneath a starry sky. It very much summed up my mood.
RSS Feed
